Day 46 (Turkey): Gümüsjaka - Istanbul (crossing another bridge)

today’s distance: 114km
total distance: 3818km
riding time: 5-6h

I woke up before Nurai and Ali. Everything was silent in the house. My preoccupation with the wind was such that the first thing I did was to look at the trees outside. Hearty breakfast, similar goodbyes and off I was. The idea the day before had been to get as far towards Istanbul as possible to make it a short day. It kind of worked, but not really.

The distance was given at 65km, but it turned out to be much more. The first few km I ate up as much as I could and things were going well. No wind, the miles went by. In Silivri I was doing a quick check up on the web and found that the flickr.com site was blocked. Strange stuff … but it was working in another cafe later in the day. I also had my first near accident as a driver was pulling towards me a bit too close for comfort. All was well though and more fun on an autobahnesque road was waiting in store. By the way, who said that universities can’t be fun?

Soon enough, traffic became much more hectic, cars trying to go in every space possible as well as those that were impossible. It all sort of worked. But it was demanding. Hills to make for a good workout and traffic to keep you on your toes. Side roads only worked for a bit and after lunch and going up a massive uphill it was back to the grind. Traffic was heavy now and I was still a good 30km out of Istanbul. Then the rain set in, making the road a bit more slippery. I was on my way up a hill when I saw what I had been looking for. A road next to a train track, not far from the airport. The saving grace at that point. Going into traffic didn’t seem like a good idea, so I hoisted the bike over the railing and walked down the side of the bridge and onto a road with much less traffic than the Autobahn I had basically been on.

The road was now slippery from the rain and the drivers didn’t make life easier as they braked in the strangest of places, but the fun never stops when you’re skidding to a halt on a loaded bike. Eventually the sun came back out and I hit the promenade that would lead me to Istanbul - the center that is. People were trying to get some fish out of the sea, kids were playing, adults were hanging out on the exercise machines that the city provides in the parks. The view was great, the city opens up in front of you, the minarets becoming more and more numerous. Eventually I was below the Blue Mosque and couldn’t help but smile about the fact that I had come all the way here by bike, knowing that this was only the start of the trip really.

I moved into the center to the Golden Horn, a bridge leading me over towards the Galatasaray area of town. Before crossing over I met another touring cyclist, easily identifiable by the handlebar pack around his shoulder. He was on his way to Jerusalem and was not happy about the traffic. He hated it. He was also carrying his pilgrimage cross a bit too prominently for my taste (he complained a bit too much generally, the food wasn’t good either and the fact that I didn’t join him in the complaint choir didn’t make me a good person to talk to). I can’t say I enjoyed it, but it was still doable and if you ride assertively (not aggressively, plenty of others who do that), things are not as bad is my take on it. Easy to say once you’re there I guess.

Negotiating my way through rows of cars, competing for the space with cars, buses, motorcycles and other vehicles I reached the Bosphorous bridge. It wasn’t a sightseeing tour. You had to be on your toes, most of the time dashing back and forth to hold your own somehow. I had asked a police officer where to go to. He said: “Up the hil here. Turn right.” He didn’t say you couldn’t go. So up I went, knowing that it was forbidden to ride across. I thought I could give it a shot. Worst thing is they turn me around, I try the second bridge. Well, once up, this is the sign you see.

Then you get this view.

Then you see a sign that I didn’t take a picture of. It says pretty clearly that you are not allowed on the bridge. It does so when you’re practically on it. And there really is no way to go back except into the traffic. That’s a no-can-do. Seriously. Not advisable. One little guardhouse on the right, I figured what the hey and went for it. Traffic was OK, cars whizzing by. No one bothered me. I took the time to a few. I also got this one.

Then the toll station. I decided to just head out through what they call EZ PASS in New York, a car right behind me. The alarm goes off. No one around and so I just cycle on. I had a bit to go to meet the parents of Gokce, a friend from grad school at Stanford. I found my way there up the hill and after some negotiating and a lucky phone call at the right time from Gokce, I was sorted out. Her father appeared cheerily a few minutes later, I follow him up a hill to their place and am told by a neighbor that I must have been very lucky to get across the bridge without being stopped. It seemed pretty straightforward to me. You should try at least I think. Traffic is doable and if you want to ride the full thing, then this one is the only place that was on my mind that could break that. short of having a major mechanical breakdown. I found out later in the day that police usually do pull bikers off the road … guess I was lucky this time.

Gokce’s parents are great, her mother unmistakably that of Gokce and her father a jolly fellow. I was loaded up with food - and pretty much ate it all. Almost feeling embarassed, but not quite. After being told by a few now that I look too thin, I decided that I must eat more. Will do that. Istanbul seems like a good place to start. So many yummy things around here. And a good few days to sample them as I am taking a bit of a break from cycling. Thanks Gokce for setting this up at such a short notice. More fun awaiting me in Istanbul tomorrow I’m sure.