Day 49 (Turkey): rest day in Istanbul III (visa issues and food fest reminder = stomach woes)

today’s distance: 0km
total distance: 3818km
riding time: 0h

The mission of the day was to get my Iran visa sorted out. I am trying to do it as early as possible so if things go downhill, I have a few more chances (for Iran it would be Ankara, Erzurum and Trabzon and if all else fails, Baku). Day started a bit on the wrong side. The Iskender Kebab which we had the night before at a great restaurant had been laden with a bit too much butter and I was paying the price for the yumminess (though when I saw the huge amount of liquid butter being poured over it, I was expecting the worst already).

Iranian visa issues are a different thing altogether. I get to the consulate, the official says: “You’re a biker!” I looked at him and was a bit taken aback, as I wasn’t going to divulge that so freely. I ask how he knew and he said. “You’re tanned and you’re fit! That’s usually a biker!” So we hit it off well (I thought). He spoke some German and decent English. He gave me a website I should turn to. I was hoping to avoid that stuff. I left without accomplishing anything really. Tried to find the next internet cafe to get things going and what they put you through essentially is a travel agency. Not what I wanted really. They would set you up with the government and so forth … Why do I need that. They want an itinerary. I don’t have one really. I submitted things anyway, not paying anything just yet and decided to go back and try again. Just when I was leaving I saw two other Germans. I had heard them talking about Iran and the visa issues. As I was passing them I looked at the guy’s shirt and lo and behold it says “4gradregen” (sort of 4 degrees of rain, am unclear about the exact meaning myself). I had emailed with Ingo before heading out once and they are also the former roommates of Holm and Julia from strassenkreuzer.org. Ingo and Heike were facing the same issues. We chattd for a bit and then I headed for the embassy. The decided to see what the result would be. They had been offered a 14 day visa, but that was too short. And would be for me.

I come back and the embassy is closed. Security guard tells me no-can-do-nothing. I plead. He leaves, comes back and asks me in. The official is still smiling his friendly smile. I explain to him that I do not understand why I should go through a travel agency and tell him about friends who got their visa in Istanbul (30 days I make clear) without having to wait and go through the whole spiel of websites and so forth. He is sympathetic. More attempts to convince him. He then says that I would need to wait 10 days. I said that I can’t, I would leave tomorrow. He ponders. “It is your responsibility if something happens.” Of course it is - whose would it be otherwise? He says he would issue it. I now needed a bank statement saying that I paid 60 EUR. No problem, there is a bank across the street. Also two pictures and some copies. I leave. Ingo and Heike are outside. They get the news from me, are thinking about trying it tomorrow. We take a picture, despite the rush we should have that much time.

Bank goes well. Run around to find a color copier or photo service. Mine were nabbed with the harddrive in Mostar. Darn. After 20 minutes I find a place that would do a scan and the printouts. Great. Have everything sorted.

I get back a third time. All papers are in order. I remain standing, waiting for him to say something. He doesn’t move. I look at him through this tiny low window. They make you bow down it seems. As if you’re requesting the biggest favor in the world. At any rate, he says “come back tomorrow” and I said that I would have to make the trek again from the other side, couldn’t he give it to me right away? Ouch. That hurt. He looks at me … and then says magnanimously that he would issue it right away. I sit down and wait. 30 days didn’t seem to be an issue. 10 minutes later he is back with my passport and visa. I look at it and the !@#$ gave me a 15 day visa only. Man … all that for nothing basically. I ask … he is curt and says there is nothing more to say. I plead. No bother. Alright, will have to renew in country. Should be doable.

Ingo and Heike are still outside, seeing how things go. I tell them and we talk and walk a bit together and finally say goodbye. Have a great trip you two and maybe our paths will cross again. And do check out their website: www.4gradregen.de.

I had hoped for an exploration day, but my stomach was back and not feeling happy.

I bumbled around town, not feeling great and eventually decided to go back. It’s nothing major and I am sure that I will be fine tomorrow again. All the weight gain in Istanbul was for naught though. Darn.