Posts from — May 2008

today’s distance: 120km
total distance: 4098km
riding time: 7-8h

The day presented itself with a good number of climbs. It started out with a steepish one, gaining over 500m within less than 6.5km. The good thing was probably that I couldn’t see the top due to the heavy fog only got denser the higher I got. It was also better as it would have been a bit discouraging I guess. The temperature had dropped to below 10C, necessitating a change of clothes on the top and a rather warm setup for the downhill, which was good fun though - albeit short - and soon enough I arrived in the town of Yenisehir. I encountered these scenes, apparently a local celebration for high school students. Though I may be wrong. I was also approached by what seemed like every student. Once an old man got angry when some students said hello, apparently because they weren’t solemn enough in the face of the flag and Atatuerk’s flag (the latter one of course being a slighly blasphemic comment).

Did lunch an hour later in Inegöl and then headed to an internet cafe. Funny things, these internet cafes in Turkey. They seem to do self-censorship for the most part. Youtube is practically blocked everywhere. Flickr however is freely accessible on private connections most of the time, but some of the internet cafes that I’ve been to block it.

I headed out and had decided on taking a route that looked like a straight shot without much traffic to Bozuyuk. Boy was I wrong (or rather the map that depicted a straight line). The start was OK, but then the road simply wound up the side of the hill for 13km, covering roughly 800m in altitude. Again, temperatures had dropped considerably at 1000m. After a brief stop at Pazaryeri I got to Bozuyuk to do some updates on the website and headed out again.

I arrived at Yörükcepni and asked to pitch my tent. Needless to say, this was followed by some tea, at which point I was hoping that I would be pointed where to set up. Nope. Somehow something was planned for me. I had no clue of course, conversation was a slow drag. Problem was that I was extremely hungry and needed food. And I couldn’t just leave of course. Eventually we ended up in a building adjacent to the mosque. Still no food though and certainly too late to fire up the stove. I munched on cookies and fruit. Tomorrow will be food day galore … so will be the days after I hope. People meant well of course and that’s what was important ultimately.

I also wanted to thank Eva for an email she sent me. Eva has more or less stumbled upon the website through mouth-to-mouth propaganda and has just told me that she would like to contribute to the donations for the Tajik village that I am supporting. A big thank you!!! If you want to consider contributing as well, there is more information over here. 

today’s distance: 115km
total distance: 3978km
riding time: 6-7h

I woke up too late. I had meant to say goodbye to Fatih in person early in the morning. That didn’t work. He left before 6:30am and I only heard the door close and he was gone by the time I had been out to open the door. Bummer …

After an uneventful ferry ride I continued on the other side until I hit the road to Iznik. It was some good uphill work for an hour with some good views. Not camera-good views given the so-so weather. After a similar downhill, I was out of energy. I could feel it, slowly slugging up the next set of hills. I pulled out at the next store, got my sugar levels back up and continued on with rain setting in. Only slight rain, but temperatures dropped. Dressed up for colder weather and continued to Iznik. I filled up the bags for dinner at the local bazar, got some baklava and was invited for tea at the bakery. Finding a spot wasn’t that easy today, but am now in an olive grove with the rain hopefully staying away.

today’s distance: 45km
total distance: 3863km
riding time: 2h

So, it was time to head out of the maze that is Istanbul. I had two choices: Autobahn (a serious one) for a bit and then into a maze of secondary highways and the like or the coastal road. I chose the latter, still with crazy traffic, but at least an occasional view. I bid my farewells to Gokce’s parents and owe them and Tolga (Gokce’s brother) a big thank you. It is his apartment actually and his parents were there for one month. On top of things, he was bumped not only from his bed by his parents, but also by me and slept on the living room couch.

I slugged through the traffic, looking a last time at the European side of Istanbul. Was it a sad moment getting away? Not really. I am looking forward to the sort of unknown, not sure what lies ahead. After getting further south, there was a good bike lane for part of the way, broken only by incongruent planning here and there.

I eventually reached Kartal, the place of Hussein’s family. As I said before, he was part of the group that made me bike again after having mono in February. He was my massage therapist and a great person. A good part of his family lives in Kartal. I found the house and had to wait until Fatih would be back from work. Internet cafe time and updates to the website. Then I hung around the house and soon enough heard someone talk about a German being here. A couple of minutes later, someone approaches me, says something about Markus and it is Fatih. We lug the bike into a garage, the rest upstairs and have dinner. I find out that many of Hussein’s and Fatih’s uncles (they’re cousins) live in the same street and with one of his uncles we drive to a traditional teagarden with a great view over the Sea of Marmara .

We then also go to his aunt. All of a sudden, I hear German and ask whether she speaks my language. She replies: “A bissel.” Which is perfect Gengenbach dialect and we have a drink and some cookies. She also has my harddrive replacement.

Fatih and I go back to his place to talk to Hussein over instant messenger. Thanks a bunch to everyone who has worked on this - place to stay, great hospitality and bringing the harddrive in. To top the day off, had a really wonderful conversation over skype … and peacefully went to bed.

today’s distance: 0km
total distance: 3818km
riding time: 0h

The mission of the day was to get my Iran visa sorted out. I am trying to do it as early as possible so if things go downhill, I have a few more chances (for Iran it would be Ankara, Erzurum and Trabzon and if all else fails, Baku). Day started a bit on the wrong side. The Iskender Kebab which we had the night before at a great restaurant had been laden with a bit too much butter and I was paying the price for the yumminess (though when I saw the huge amount of liquid butter being poured over it, I was expecting the worst already).

Iranian visa issues are a different thing altogether. I get to the consulate, the official says: “You’re a biker!” I looked at him and was a bit taken aback, as I wasn’t going to divulge that so freely. I ask how he knew and he said. “You’re tanned and you’re fit! That’s usually a biker!” So we hit it off well (I thought). He spoke some German and decent English. He gave me a website I should turn to. I was hoping to avoid that stuff. I left without accomplishing anything really. Tried to find the next internet cafe to get things going and what they put you through essentially is a travel agency. Not what I wanted really. They would set you up with the government and so forth … Why do I need that. They want an itinerary. I don’t have one really. I submitted things anyway, not paying anything just yet and decided to go back and try again. Just when I was leaving I saw two other Germans. I had heard them talking about Iran and the visa issues. As I was passing them I looked at the guy’s shirt and lo and behold it says “4gradregen” (sort of 4 degrees of rain, am unclear about the exact meaning myself). I had emailed with Ingo before heading out once and they are also the former roommates of Holm and Julia from strassenkreuzer.org. Ingo and Heike were facing the same issues. We chattd for a bit and then I headed for the embassy. The decided to see what the result would be. They had been offered a 14 day visa, but that was too short. And would be for me.

I come back and the embassy is closed. Security guard tells me no-can-do-nothing. I plead. He leaves, comes back and asks me in. The official is still smiling his friendly smile. I explain to him that I do not understand why I should go through a travel agency and tell him about friends who got their visa in Istanbul (30 days I make clear) without having to wait and go through the whole spiel of websites and so forth. He is sympathetic. More attempts to convince him. He then says that I would need to wait 10 days. I said that I can’t, I would leave tomorrow. He ponders. “It is your responsibility if something happens.” Of course it is - whose would it be otherwise? He says he would issue it. I now needed a bank statement saying that I paid 60 EUR. No problem, there is a bank across the street. Also two pictures and some copies. I leave. Ingo and Heike are outside. They get the news from me, are thinking about trying it tomorrow. We take a picture, despite the rush we should have that much time.

Bank goes well. Run around to find a color copier or photo service. Mine were nabbed with the harddrive in Mostar. Darn. After 20 minutes I find a place that would do a scan and the printouts. Great. Have everything sorted.

I get back a third time. All papers are in order. I remain standing, waiting for him to say something. He doesn’t move. I look at him through this tiny low window. They make you bow down it seems. As if you’re requesting the biggest favor in the world. At any rate, he says “come back tomorrow” and I said that I would have to make the trek again from the other side, couldn’t he give it to me right away? Ouch. That hurt. He looks at me … and then says magnanimously that he would issue it right away. I sit down and wait. 30 days didn’t seem to be an issue. 10 minutes later he is back with my passport and visa. I look at it and the !@#$ gave me a 15 day visa only. Man … all that for nothing basically. I ask … he is curt and says there is nothing more to say. I plead. No bother. Alright, will have to renew in country. Should be doable.

Ingo and Heike are still outside, seeing how things go. I tell them and we talk and walk a bit together and finally say goodbye. Have a great trip you two and maybe our paths will cross again. And do check out their website: www.4gradregen.de.

I had hoped for an exploration day, but my stomach was back and not feeling happy.

I bumbled around town, not feeling great and eventually decided to go back. It’s nothing major and I am sure that I will be fine tomorrow again. All the weight gain in Istanbul was for naught though. Darn.

today’s distance: 0km
total distance: 3818km
riding time: 0h

Happy Mother’s Day … for those in Europe and wherever you celebrate today. Slow start in a food-filled day after a succession of bad dreams during the night. Ah … good thing they are over.

Again, this will be more about pictures than text. It was a great day to visit the city and Gokce’s parents and her aunt and uncle set out to take a look at the Beyoglu area with me.

It was a food fest. More Koefte (still yummy), ice cream and drinks in some really nice bars (rooftop terrace included) were part of the fun. We shared it with many people … the city was full to the breaking point it seemed.

We also climbed the Galata Tower and enjoyed some wonderful views.

And despite the overwhelming number of bike stores in the area, I will stick with Speedzone, a great place to go for a bike.

And here is a great end to a great day …

(by the way, all pictures can be clicked on and will lead you to my flickr site)