Day 180 (Tajikistan): Shirgovad - somewhere in the Pyanj valley (Kalashnikov beats annoyance, if the guy could read things would be easier)

daily distance: 101km
total distance: 10,841km
riding time: 8h

Early morning in Shirgovad and it was much colder than I had anticipated. The Pamir nights should be fun up at 4000m in the tent. Tonight was under the stars though and with a blanket and the silk liner only.

Off on the Russian asphalt, which means broken pieces for some time, but also mostly rideable. The fun thing is that you just never know when it starts or ends. I had been told that it would be 22km until I reach the town of Khalaikum - and 22km on the mark it was. Nothing spectacular - the stores weren’t even better stocked than in small towns, so I set out. Not without calling my sister to get some things organized. I have decided that I will apply for my US visa in Bishkek, the Beijing trip would take much longer and the wait times are not attractive. The decision in Bishkek is practically made on the spot and if approved you can pick up the visa the next day. For me, this means scrambling in every direction, trying to get everything to Bishkek in time without email connections to speak of. I have one day in Khorog for that. Then everything must be green and on its way.

Calling was easy - but not cheap. Nor easy to get the operator to find out the code she had to punch in for international calls. I knew 49 for Germany, but how do you come up with 8 and 10 before that? $1 for a minute. But under the circumstances I was glad that I could make the call after some discussions.

The rest of the day was devoted to one thing only. Riding. Long stretches with decent roads and long stretches without so decent roads. My TV program from days prior was on again. But much was on repeat. But the landscape is simply fantastic. If only the road was better so that I could look more often. The road also climbs a lot. The total was only a 300m gain or so, but overall I did more than 1300m in altitude. Roads at the end were kind of like yesterday, which was no fun. And I wasn’t sure where I would end up. As dark was approaching, I was still in a canyon-like part without any place to stay. The valley was narrow, no village on either side. I was sure it would open up eventually. Rockslide and mudslides and falling stone wasn’t my idea of having a good night.

I ended up out of the canyon part and found a good spot in an orchard. Good apples too.

The title of the email … Yes, yet another couple of soldiers being bored out of their mind stopped me. It must have been like no. 6 or 7 at the time. And I couldn’t help but showing my annoyance. The guy showed his Kalashnikov. I showed my passport. Then it occured to me that he couldn’t read. He kept staring at the Iranian visa. At me and then the Iranian visa. Over and over. Finally, I grabbed the passport, said that this was the passport, this was the visa and the permit for the Pamir. That out of the way, they let me go. Frustrating and sad at the same time.