Day 185 (Tajikistan): Wer - Upalisai (almost over the pass, but not quite yet)

Note: I am in Kyrgyzstan as I am posting this, having gone over the Pamir Highway, and am doing great, heading up to Bishkek to sort things out with the US visa. Thanks to all those who sent messages and for those who donated via Paypal on the inbetween. For more info, head over to the donations information page.

More updates to follow in the coming days as I can upload pictures and the like. It’s still all a bit complicated here.

daily distance: 79km
total distance: 11,081km
riding time: 5h

Again, I had the wind in my back as I was heading up the valley further. Not sure about the last place to replenish, I decided to go with the basics and do my purchases early. Meaning that I also had to lug them up the mountain. But I shouldn’t have worried. You can get supplies fairly far up the valley, except for bread. No one sells it. You have to ask for it and then they won’t have any money for it here. No, we don’t want anything for bread, even in a little store. Thanks a bunch!!!

The scenery was great, the fall colors out in force.

I left the Gunt behind me and went up a side valley, passing a few more hamlets and a statute of the Marco Polo sheep that is prevalent here.

In the village of Jelondy there is a sanatorium (which is a hot spring), but I decided to move up a bit further towards the Koy-Tezek Pass, but not to go over it tonight.

No need to rush things really.

Turns out it was a great choice. Just before the switchbacks start I saw a house and without asking was invited in. And it was a good thing. The night was bittercold and extremely windy. Temperature went down to -10C and wind was pretty fierce all night long. Lying in the house with a snug blanket around was a good thing (despite heavy snoring next to me).

Here is a picture of where I would be going up the following day … fun stuff.