Category — Turkey

today’s distance: 45km
total distance: 3863km
riding time: 2h

So, it was time to head out of the maze that is Istanbul. I had two choices: Autobahn (a serious one) for a bit and then into a maze of secondary highways and the like or the coastal road. I chose the latter, still with crazy traffic, but at least an occasional view. I bid my farewells to Gokce’s parents and owe them and Tolga (Gokce’s brother) a big thank you. It is his apartment actually and his parents were there for one month. On top of things, he was bumped not only from his bed by his parents, but also by me and slept on the living room couch.

I slugged through the traffic, looking a last time at the European side of Istanbul. Was it a sad moment getting away? Not really. I am looking forward to the sort of unknown, not sure what lies ahead. After getting further south, there was a good bike lane for part of the way, broken only by incongruent planning here and there.

I eventually reached Kartal, the place of Hussein’s family. As I said before, he was part of the group that made me bike again after having mono in February. He was my massage therapist and a great person. A good part of his family lives in Kartal. I found the house and had to wait until Fatih would be back from work. Internet cafe time and updates to the website. Then I hung around the house and soon enough heard someone talk about a German being here. A couple of minutes later, someone approaches me, says something about Markus and it is Fatih. We lug the bike into a garage, the rest upstairs and have dinner. I find out that many of Hussein’s and Fatih’s uncles (they’re cousins) live in the same street and with one of his uncles we drive to a traditional teagarden with a great view over the Sea of Marmara .

We then also go to his aunt. All of a sudden, I hear German and ask whether she speaks my language. She replies: “A bissel.” Which is perfect Gengenbach dialect and we have a drink and some cookies. She also has my harddrive replacement.

Fatih and I go back to his place to talk to Hussein over instant messenger. Thanks a bunch to everyone who has worked on this - place to stay, great hospitality and bringing the harddrive in. To top the day off, had a really wonderful conversation over skype … and peacefully went to bed.

today’s distance: 0km
total distance: 3818km
riding time: 0h

The mission of the day was to get my Iran visa sorted out. I am trying to do it as early as possible so if things go downhill, I have a few more chances (for Iran it would be Ankara, Erzurum and Trabzon and if all else fails, Baku). Day started a bit on the wrong side. The Iskender Kebab which we had the night before at a great restaurant had been laden with a bit too much butter and I was paying the price for the yumminess (though when I saw the huge amount of liquid butter being poured over it, I was expecting the worst already).

Iranian visa issues are a different thing altogether. I get to the consulate, the official says: “You’re a biker!” I looked at him and was a bit taken aback, as I wasn’t going to divulge that so freely. I ask how he knew and he said. “You’re tanned and you’re fit! That’s usually a biker!” So we hit it off well (I thought). He spoke some German and decent English. He gave me a website I should turn to. I was hoping to avoid that stuff. I left without accomplishing anything really. Tried to find the next internet cafe to get things going and what they put you through essentially is a travel agency. Not what I wanted really. They would set you up with the government and so forth … Why do I need that. They want an itinerary. I don’t have one really. I submitted things anyway, not paying anything just yet and decided to go back and try again. Just when I was leaving I saw two other Germans. I had heard them talking about Iran and the visa issues. As I was passing them I looked at the guy’s shirt and lo and behold it says “4gradregen” (sort of 4 degrees of rain, am unclear about the exact meaning myself). I had emailed with Ingo before heading out once and they are also the former roommates of Holm and Julia from strassenkreuzer.org. Ingo and Heike were facing the same issues. We chattd for a bit and then I headed for the embassy. The decided to see what the result would be. They had been offered a 14 day visa, but that was too short. And would be for me.

I come back and the embassy is closed. Security guard tells me no-can-do-nothing. I plead. He leaves, comes back and asks me in. The official is still smiling his friendly smile. I explain to him that I do not understand why I should go through a travel agency and tell him about friends who got their visa in Istanbul (30 days I make clear) without having to wait and go through the whole spiel of websites and so forth. He is sympathetic. More attempts to convince him. He then says that I would need to wait 10 days. I said that I can’t, I would leave tomorrow. He ponders. “It is your responsibility if something happens.” Of course it is - whose would it be otherwise? He says he would issue it. I now needed a bank statement saying that I paid 60 EUR. No problem, there is a bank across the street. Also two pictures and some copies. I leave. Ingo and Heike are outside. They get the news from me, are thinking about trying it tomorrow. We take a picture, despite the rush we should have that much time.

Bank goes well. Run around to find a color copier or photo service. Mine were nabbed with the harddrive in Mostar. Darn. After 20 minutes I find a place that would do a scan and the printouts. Great. Have everything sorted.

I get back a third time. All papers are in order. I remain standing, waiting for him to say something. He doesn’t move. I look at him through this tiny low window. They make you bow down it seems. As if you’re requesting the biggest favor in the world. At any rate, he says “come back tomorrow” and I said that I would have to make the trek again from the other side, couldn’t he give it to me right away? Ouch. That hurt. He looks at me … and then says magnanimously that he would issue it right away. I sit down and wait. 30 days didn’t seem to be an issue. 10 minutes later he is back with my passport and visa. I look at it and the !@#$ gave me a 15 day visa only. Man … all that for nothing basically. I ask … he is curt and says there is nothing more to say. I plead. No bother. Alright, will have to renew in country. Should be doable.

Ingo and Heike are still outside, seeing how things go. I tell them and we talk and walk a bit together and finally say goodbye. Have a great trip you two and maybe our paths will cross again. And do check out their website: www.4gradregen.de.

I had hoped for an exploration day, but my stomach was back and not feeling happy.

I bumbled around town, not feeling great and eventually decided to go back. It’s nothing major and I am sure that I will be fine tomorrow again. All the weight gain in Istanbul was for naught though. Darn.

today’s distance: 0km
total distance: 3818km
riding time: 0h

Happy Mother’s Day … for those in Europe and wherever you celebrate today. Slow start in a food-filled day after a succession of bad dreams during the night. Ah … good thing they are over.

Again, this will be more about pictures than text. It was a great day to visit the city and Gokce’s parents and her aunt and uncle set out to take a look at the Beyoglu area with me.

It was a food fest. More Koefte (still yummy), ice cream and drinks in some really nice bars (rooftop terrace included) were part of the fun. We shared it with many people … the city was full to the breaking point it seemed.

We also climbed the Galata Tower and enjoyed some wonderful views.

And despite the overwhelming number of bike stores in the area, I will stick with Speedzone, a great place to go for a bike.

And here is a great end to a great day …

(by the way, all pictures can be clicked on and will lead you to my flickr site)

today’s distance: 0km
total distance: 3818km
riding time: 0h

WARNING: Lots of pictures in this post (and even more on the flickr site).

No biking today and what a fun-filled day it was. After a slow morning Gokce’s father and I set out to tour the city. Haluk is a great tour guide, his gregarious ways making the day. We reached the ferries, got across the main street of Istanbul and had a great time touring the Topkapi Palace (despite the hordes of tourists and schoolchildren a definite must I think) and the Hagia Sofia.

This is where I didn’t believe whom I saw … Philippe, a friend from Stanford Law School. He was in Istanbul for a conference and had put in another day to tour the city.

After this chance encounter it was time for food … Koefte and Piyaz was the name of the game. Apart from one other table we were the only other tourists despite the location straight across from the mass tourist attractions. Simple, but great food.

This was followed by the cistern and the Grand Bazar. Yes, we did the tourist thing, but it was great fun.

Gokce’s father is a great and funny person. More food was to follow before we got back on the ferry and headed home. It was an amazing day, Gokce’s father opening the place much better than I could have done had I been on my own.

Once there we enjoyed great Börek - homemade by Gokce’s mother, fantastic stuff. Thanks for a great day.

I’ve said this before, but now there are heaps of pictures on the flickr site, go check them out if you like.

today’s distance: 114km
total distance: 3818km
riding time: 5-6h

I woke up before Nurai and Ali. Everything was silent in the house. My preoccupation with the wind was such that the first thing I did was to look at the trees outside. Hearty breakfast, similar goodbyes and off I was. The idea the day before had been to get as far towards Istanbul as possible to make it a short day. It kind of worked, but not really.

The distance was given at 65km, but it turned out to be much more. The first few km I ate up as much as I could and things were going well. No wind, the miles went by. In Silivri I was doing a quick check up on the web and found that the flickr.com site was blocked. Strange stuff … but it was working in another cafe later in the day. I also had my first near accident as a driver was pulling towards me a bit too close for comfort. All was well though and more fun on an autobahnesque road was waiting in store. By the way, who said that universities can’t be fun?

Soon enough, traffic became much more hectic, cars trying to go in every space possible as well as those that were impossible. It all sort of worked. But it was demanding. Hills to make for a good workout and traffic to keep you on your toes. Side roads only worked for a bit and after lunch and going up a massive uphill it was back to the grind. Traffic was heavy now and I was still a good 30km out of Istanbul. Then the rain set in, making the road a bit more slippery. I was on my way up a hill when I saw what I had been looking for. A road next to a train track, not far from the airport. The saving grace at that point. Going into traffic didn’t seem like a good idea, so I hoisted the bike over the railing and walked down the side of the bridge and onto a road with much less traffic than the Autobahn I had basically been on.

The road was now slippery from the rain and the drivers didn’t make life easier as they braked in the strangest of places, but the fun never stops when you’re skidding to a halt on a loaded bike. Eventually the sun came back out and I hit the promenade that would lead me to Istanbul - the center that is. People were trying to get some fish out of the sea, kids were playing, adults were hanging out on the exercise machines that the city provides in the parks. The view was great, the city opens up in front of you, the minarets becoming more and more numerous. Eventually I was below the Blue Mosque and couldn’t help but smile about the fact that I had come all the way here by bike, knowing that this was only the start of the trip really.

I moved into the center to the Golden Horn, a bridge leading me over towards the Galatasaray area of town. Before crossing over I met another touring cyclist, easily identifiable by the handlebar pack around his shoulder. He was on his way to Jerusalem and was not happy about the traffic. He hated it. He was also carrying his pilgrimage cross a bit too prominently for my taste (he complained a bit too much generally, the food wasn’t good either and the fact that I didn’t join him in the complaint choir didn’t make me a good person to talk to). I can’t say I enjoyed it, but it was still doable and if you ride assertively (not aggressively, plenty of others who do that), things are not as bad is my take on it. Easy to say once you’re there I guess.

Negotiating my way through rows of cars, competing for the space with cars, buses, motorcycles and other vehicles I reached the Bosphorous bridge. It wasn’t a sightseeing tour. You had to be on your toes, most of the time dashing back and forth to hold your own somehow. I had asked a police officer where to go to. He said: “Up the hil here. Turn right.” He didn’t say you couldn’t go. So up I went, knowing that it was forbidden to ride across. I thought I could give it a shot. Worst thing is they turn me around, I try the second bridge. Well, once up, this is the sign you see.

Then you get this view.

Then you see a sign that I didn’t take a picture of. It says pretty clearly that you are not allowed on the bridge. It does so when you’re practically on it. And there really is no way to go back except into the traffic. That’s a no-can-do. Seriously. Not advisable. One little guardhouse on the right, I figured what the hey and went for it. Traffic was OK, cars whizzing by. No one bothered me. I took the time to a few. I also got this one.

Then the toll station. I decided to just head out through what they call EZ PASS in New York, a car right behind me. The alarm goes off. No one around and so I just cycle on. I had a bit to go to meet the parents of Gokce, a friend from grad school at Stanford. I found my way there up the hill and after some negotiating and a lucky phone call at the right time from Gokce, I was sorted out. Her father appeared cheerily a few minutes later, I follow him up a hill to their place and am told by a neighbor that I must have been very lucky to get across the bridge without being stopped. It seemed pretty straightforward to me. You should try at least I think. Traffic is doable and if you want to ride the full thing, then this one is the only place that was on my mind that could break that. short of having a major mechanical breakdown. I found out later in the day that police usually do pull bikers off the road … guess I was lucky this time.

Gokce’s parents are great, her mother unmistakably that of Gokce and her father a jolly fellow. I was loaded up with food - and pretty much ate it all. Almost feeling embarassed, but not quite. After being told by a few now that I look too thin, I decided that I must eat more. Will do that. Istanbul seems like a good place to start. So many yummy things around here. And a good few days to sample them as I am taking a bit of a break from cycling. Thanks Gokce for setting this up at such a short notice. More fun awaiting me in Istanbul tomorrow I’m sure.