Pedaling from the Black Forest to the Yellow Sea

today’s distance: 127km
total distance: 3496km
riding time: 7h

I woke up early … no wonder given the place I was sleeping in. Christos’ mother must have seen me moving around (the former workshop had windows all around, which was great for people watching the night before, but gave you the aquarium feeling somewhat) and soon she came out with some hard boiled eggs, a huge slab of cake (essentially a huge amount of yeast dough) and another Coke for the way. When the door was open the night before (more like a one-second affair) I had seen a couple of icons and religious paintings inside, figuring that the family was rather religious. She also gave me a small neclace made of a wooden cross. My own stance on religion notwithstanding, I was moved by the gesture and will keep it as my now second good luck charm.

I set out not really feeling that anything would be adequate, so all I could say was a big thank you. I bumbled around in the next village a bit, looking for some hot springs, but finding more storks and some other motives instead.

I rounded a lake, with the ocean to my right and the lake to my left. Birdwatching was great, the numbers were simply amazing. I eventually turned off the main road and got on smaller side roads, making life much more pleasant. Met someone from Mannheim in a shop that I asked directions in. Fun stuff. The guy lived in Greece, but his kurspfalz dialect was clearly discernible when he spoke Greek. Over little hills and dirt roads and little trails I got to the ocean and continued over more rolling hills to a good spot to have lunch. A church yard overlooking the ocean. Moving on I was forced away from the water only to return to it later again. I had thought I could visit an island off the coast (Samothrakis) by ferry, but I found out thanks to a nice storeowner that the next ferry would go late the next day only. Given that I was to meet up with Hussein’s family in Istanbul over the weekend I didn’t think it would be good to spend another day in Alexandropoulis so I thought I would take the rest of the day slow. It wasn’t to be. I ploughed on and have come to halt not far from a gas station the owner of which speaks German and said that I should pitch my tent on his grounds, he’d be happy to have me.

One note: today I have been warned twice of heading to Turkey. Once by the owner of a hotel (nice guy apart from the comments) who talked about rape and all sorts of things and that I should be careful of people there. “They are simply not European …” I wasn’t going to go into a big discussion with someone whose minds was so made up, but that same sentiment came across in more and more conversations and seems to be more prevalent the closer I get to the border. The two ethnic groups are living close together here and from what I heard rather well side-by-side. That’s why the comments surprised me even more. Needless to say, I think they are bunk and that bad people may be everywhere … so much for politics on this day.

today’s distance: 112km
total distance: 3369km
riding time: 5-6h

The night had been rainy, but in the morning things had cleared up. I was slow to get up though, maybe because of the long ride yesterday.

I slowly moved to Kavala, after treating myself to wonderfully rich and moist cakes in a bakery along the way. Then the unmistakable Bavarian accent in a Greek’s English came through as I was held up by a construction worker. We quickly changed from English to German, he asked me where I was coming from, where I was heading and the like, then waved me through.

Kavala was pleasant enough despite the first drops of rain for the day. I waited most of the rain out and then set out with a good tailwind until Xanthi on good roads.

Xanthi received me with more rain, but also with the first road biker in Greece who goes by the name of Yanis (or John as he introduced himself, and he was not the first to use that one). He called me a little crazy, but we had a good talk on the last kms to Xanthi.

In Xanthi I walked through the old quarter of town with its many remodeled houses. I came upon an art gallery and when taking a picture Yanis and Alexandros approached me and we got into a conversation about the town, the people living there (a good number of Turkish people, but also Pomak with their own unwritten language) and more.

When I left town, I was chased by what I can only describe as the dogs from hell. Using my waterbottle usually is a good way to get rid of dogs. For some reason, the dogs here in Greece go nuts … and much more so than in other places so far. They seem to have a cerain gusto for bikers If worse comes to worse, you squirt them with water and things are good. Not this time. I was in city traffic. Oncoming traffic on my left, dogs on my right, behind me and one running around to cut me off from the front. They were also unperturbed by my water bottle. It must have been quite a sight. If anyone can tell me why animals (dogs, goats, sheep and donkeys) go nuts when they see a biker, but are not even bothered by cars, trucks or tanks, I would certainly appreciate any suggestions. Up comes a red light, the dogs still chasing me. Stopping didn’t seem like an option, so I careened around the only car standing there and ran a red light - the dogs still on my heels. Then a bridge came up and this was the saving factor. Outdoing them on speed wasn’t an option in the city and for some reason they really were after me. No sausages in my bags … didn’t really understand why I was their target. Regardless of size or color.

I had hoped to find some place to pitch the tent outside of Xanthi, but that wasn’t to be. A t-storm had hit the area just before I got there, there was water standing in the fields and no good places to put the tent up. The places I tried out were a no-go. Muddy as you can have it. The storks that I started to see in good numbers sure liked it.

Eventually I turned into a town, saw three youths and asked whether there was a place for me since there were apparently no hotels and it was essentially dark. Eventually and aftera good while, Christos’ mother who had seen us talking suggested the former workshop of the family. 5 minutes later she brought out potatoes, cheese, bread, tsatsiki and something to drink … yum, yum.

And since some people have asked about my future job that I mentioned a bit back and since it is not really a secret, here we go. I will be starting a position as an associate professor at the University of Miami. The biking situation doesn’t seem to be the most friendly there, but seems managable regardless (thanks to Mike, a student at the law school for sending this).

today’s distance: 145km
total distance: 3257km
riding time: 7h

Plato and Curtis were to set out early at 7am, but for some reason that didn’t pan out. This delayed my departure and so I left Thessaloniki at 9am only. Out of the city, part of which involved an uphill on an Autobahnesque type of road due to me misreading the signage or faulty signage. The other direction pointed towards a highway, so I wasn’t going to take it. Oh well, took the next exit and the riding for the next miles was simply great. Mostly aided by a tailwind, I covered the next miles along two lakes, hills all around. This by the way is what my hand looks like, big tan line I would say, from wearing long sleeves so far.

I met a Swiss biker with this dog in a box on front of the bike. He has been on the road for about two years and was heading to Thessaloniki.

Through a gorge I arrived at the ocean, eventually hitting a strong headwind. I meant to buy some stuff for the night, but the town that was to come up never did. I needed water and could do the rest with what was in my bags. Big dog in front of a hut. A grumpy Greek comes out seeing that his dog was running my way. I asked for some water, he seemed unwilling. He took off with my bottles, then asked me into his yard. Then I saw what had happened. The hut was next to a river and the house had been under water almost to where the roof is. No water for sure. Then he took his cooler out and gave me three bottles, indicating that he would be back in Kavala tomorrow. I thanked him and moved on, not really wanting to pedal much longer. I saw a German license plate VW bus off to the side of the road and a Turkish older man telling me that he needed help. I told him that I would see what I could do and saw a little food place on the right hand side. Turned out that they couldn’t help. Eventually the police comes by and I tell them about the situation. They move away. A few minutes later I go back to the guy and he said it’s all taken care of, the police had been there and he was being towed soon. Back to the trailer and downhill from there to a great campsite by the beach …

today’s distance: 0km
total distance: 3112km
riding time: 0km

It was a slow day after a long night out. We eventually found our way around the city, having hunted down the heavenly bougatsa (pastry filled with cream, good stuff!!!). Then we made our way to the hills, taking a look at the old city, the Jewish quarter and back down. Plato had the good idea to head to a specialty store in some mall outside the city and what we tasted there was simply amazing. A large choice of cheeses and meats and the staff was more than happy to let us try all of what they had. When they heard what I was up to we soon had a conversation going.

I couldn’t leave without getting some stuff, sundried tomatoes, a couple of cheeses. I really would have liked to stay there for the night, camp out in the store … The lady we talked knew pretty much where everything was made and came from, which island had the best milk for this and that. It was what food can be like I suppose.

More food goodness in the city and a leisurely night rounded up the day.

today’s distance: 44km
total distance: 3112km
riding time: 2h

Woke up the sounds of barking dogs and chattering geese, dozed off and eventually heard the church bells ringing. Needed to get up I thought. Then I heard the Pater’s voice over some speakers, singing. My hunch was that it wouldn’t last all that long, but an hour later I was still waiting to bid my farewell. Eventually a lady told him that I was outside and I would have been happy to wait, but the person he was singing with did a solo part and Pater Seraphim and I said our goodbyes.

The ride into Thessaloniki was … ugly sums it up. Traffic, noise, fumes and partially nasty roads. But then I was there and eventually was to meet up with Plato, my couchsurfing host for the next couple of days (rest day tomorrow). Before that I met Nopi however, a student who was working in a photo gallery and we got into a conversation which ended up with the two of us sitting outside the little gallery, overlooking the water and talking about “we Greek people do things differently” (I had heard that before in Macedonia) and “we Greek people are crazy” (the driving that morning certainly was testament to that). She filled me in on the local foods and places I needed to eat and see and what to avoid. Her background is also interesting … her family comes from what is now Turkey and was part of the so-called population exchange that took place between Greece and Turkey in 1923.

I eventually met up with Plato, who had a friend from Canada visit (Curtis) and the three of us were out for the night, letting me head into bed much later than I anticipated.